System 6

I believe the only way to consistently beat the game of roulette is by capitalizing upon the tendencies of random numbers. Some experts claim that the game can be beaten by reading dealer signatures. I'm not going to devote a lot of time to getting into an argument here over whether such things even exist or not, but over the years after much examination and study I have come to believe that dealer signatures are not a factor. Yet other experts claim the only way to beat a wheel is by clocking it for hundreds or even thousands of spins and trying to find a bias.

This too is impractical even though there may be a few biased wheels out there. I believe they are the exception and not the norm. Wheels are regularly examined and serviced to make sure they are producing random results. And if a wheel is suspected of having a bias, the position of the numbers is rotated around the wheel at different time intervals so that numbers that are coming up today as a result of a bias may not be coming up tomorrow or a few days from now. Different numbers will have taken their place.

Besides, the technology and manufacturing process has improved over the years to the point that today's wheels really are near perfect, at least when they come from the factory. And, recently more and more casinos are using a lighter ball that has more action and jumps and bounces more than ever. I've noticed lately that I'm seeing more balls jumping out of the roulette wheel and rolling across the floor as a result of the use of the lighter balls. Of course the idea for this is to make the results of the spins more random. And since a roulette wheel is really just a random number generator, the only thing we can count on the wheel to do is produce random numbers. So, if we are going to make a serious attempt at beating this game, we must capitalize upon the tendencies of random numbers.

The two main characteristics of random numbers that we are going to exploit are these. First, when dealing with random numbers, you will notice that from time to time a number will get lost and not appear for a while. For example, suppose you are dealing with 6 numbers: 1,2,3,4,5,6. If each number were being selected at random by a random number generator, then mathematically each number should ultimately average hitting once in every 6 decisions. And they will over an extended period of time.

However, during short intervals of 15 to 20 decisions, a number might get lost and not appear at all. Say you were betting on the 6 to appear. Theoretically it should come up 3 times in 18 decisions, right? But, it might not come up at all in 18 decisions and it might not even appear for 30 decisions or more.

It happens. That is one tendency of random numbers. The second tendency that we will exploit is the fact that when the 6 does finally start to appear, it will eventually hit with greater frequency than normal in order to make up for its not having appeared in the previous 25 to 30 decisions. It has to make it up sometime or at least come close. This is a mathematical law. The problem that still remains (and the only reason we would ever lose at this game) is that we don't know precisely when the 6 will decide to make up those hits that it missed. We know it is coming back, we just don't know its precise itinerary. But we can also use another tendency of random numbers to have a better idea of when the missed hits will be made up. We will talk about that later. But these are the principles that we will use to make sure that most of the time we leave a roulette table with more money than we came with.

In the following methodology, I am going to present several approaches to beating the game. Everyone's personality is different and some will prefer one approach above another. But the one I personally prefer and the one I have been by far the most successful using is the one I present last. Those who insist upon a strictly mechanical approach to the game may not like the final method because it does require a bit of subjective decision making on behalf of the player. In other words, it will require a little more skill and practice. But if you are determined to beat the game of roulette, it will be well worth your while to devote some time and effort to developing your skill at playing the final method. I've been winning about 85% of my sessions using this approach and I'm sure that with some patience, determination, and practice, anyone else can do just as well if not better. It really is ultimately the best way to go to insure long term profits. A roulette table is very fickle. It can turn on you without notice. When you are locked into a strictly mechanical way of playing, it is like being in a fight with both feet tied together. You can't maneuver to avoid your opponent's punches. Also, no one goes to war with only one strategy. You need to be flexible.

Each roulette wheel has its own personality. But I find that roulette wheels are even more fickle than craps tables. Just when you think you've got them figured out, everything changes. The zeros have a lot to do with that. In craps your main enemy is the 7. But in roulette, you are facing 3 enemies (at least on the American double zero wheel). You can get zapped by the zeros, as well as other sections of the wheel. And if you attempt to protect yourself against the zeros, it eats into your profits so significantly that eventually this factor alone would bankrupt you. It just doesn't pay in the long run. But, once again, due to the tendencies of random numbers, if the zeros start hitting to make up for being lost, then you might actually make some money by covering the zeros. But everything considered, it is a bad bet.

Well, we know what we are up against, and we know that we are going to capitalize upon the tendencies of random numbers to make us winners, so let’s get to the first approach.

All of the strategies presented here are going to be based upon making line bets. In all aspects of this system, we do just that.

Numbers 1-6 are section one. Numbers 7-12 are section two.

Section three is composed of numbers 13-18. Section four is numbers 19-24. Five is 25-30 and section 6 is 31-36. Until you get the sections memorized, you may want to write them down at the top of your score sheet. The bet illustrated is a bet on section 4. A bet on section 6 would go on the line between 31 and 34. All other sections work the same way. When a number is spun, instead of recording the number itself, you merely record the section. So in actuality we are only going to be dealing with 6 numbers, the numbers which represent sections 1-6. (Note that throughout the remainder of this document the terms "number" and "section" are used interchangeably.) For example, if number 25 spins up, instead of writing down number 25, we write down number 5 because 25 is the first number in section 5. If number 10 spins up, then write down a 2 because number 10 is found in section 2.

Understand? Do not consider zeros when recording your section numbers. When a zero spins up, you might make a small notation above the section number that eventually hits, but do not record a zero in place of a section number. You will see what I mean shortly.

Now, when you walk up to a roulette table to begin play, most tables will have a lighted board or "marquee" which automatically records the numbers that have spun up in the last 16 to 21 spins. (Some boards record more spins than others). You can use these numbers to record the sections that have previously appeared. The last number to come up is always the top number on the board, so you want to start recording the numbers from the bottom and go to the top. A word of caution, however. Always check and make sure the board is working properly. Physically look at the wheel and make sure the slot the ball is sitting in is the same number that is showing as the top number on the marquee. And since you are still going to have to watch a few spins before beginning play, make sure the board is recording the spins properly. It is not unusual to find a board that is either not working at all, or is not recording every spin, or is perhaps misreading numbers. In other words, it is posting the wrong number. Sometimes the lens on the reader gets dirty and these things can really foul up. But usually they work fine, just make sure. You don't want to be making your bets based upon erroneous information.

BEGINNING PLAY

As I stated earlier, you will see 16 to 22 numbers listed on the marquee. Record these numbers and take note because you will need to see upwards of 30 spins before you can safely begin play. We must be patient because we have to get an idea of what the wheel is doing so we can make effective and wise plays. You can record your numbers while standing or sitting (perhaps at a slot machine) near the wheel. Don't worry, no one minds you’re watching and recording numbers. People do it all the time.

Now, suppose we walk up to a new table and see the numbers 18,36,5,9,7,10,15, 22, 0, and 25. We are going to record the numbers by section and we are going to record them in groups of 3 as in the example at the top of the next page.

3 6 1

2 2 2

3 4 5 (Note: the zero was not recorded)

You see, 18 is section 3, 36 is section 6, 5 is section 1, 9 is section 2, 7 is section 2, etc. In this particular approach, it doesn't really matter that we are grouping the numbers in 3's, but in the other approaches it does so we might as well be uniform and besides I believe this is a very easy way to see what is going on.

As we record our sections, we are going to be looking for trends.

We want to note when a section disappears and doesn't show for at least 12 spins. We may be looking at a lost number. When a number (or section) gets lost, we try to capitalize on it in two ways.

We can play one unit on each of the other 5 sections and make one-unit profit on each spin as long as the lost number doesn't return or we don't catch a zero. Generally, when playing lost numbers in this manner, we only want to play them for 3 spins.

And even that can be dangerous enough, but to go much longer is to substantially increase our risk. But since this play involves a high risk and if the lost section comes back and hits or we hit a zero we are going to lose 5 units, we want to take every precaution and make sure that we see a successful play of this kind before we try it. So, we want to observe the table until we see a section get lost and not hit for at least 12 spins, then we want to see what happens. Does it come back immediately on the 13th or 14th spin, or does it stay gone for 17 or 18 spins? If it stays gone, then this might be a good play the next time we have a lost number. But remember, watch out for the zeros, especially on an American double zero wheel. If the zero hits, you lose all bets. If a zero has hit recently (within the last 7 spins or so), or even more so if two have hit, don't make this play. Like all other random numbers, when they start hitting, they will tend to hit closer and closer together for a while, then eventually get further and further apart. That's why you will often see marquees with no zeros showing or look later and see 3 or 4 on the same marquee. I got hit by 3 zeros in a row the other night when I was playing so it is not that unusual to see the zeros group up. And just a side note, always try to play a single zero wheel if one is available.

It will make a big difference in your bottom line.

To illustrate the play I just described, look at the following example.

4 3 6

5 3 4

1 4 5

4 5 6

In this example we notice that the 2 is lost. Suppose we have already noticed in the numbers recorded previously that a section stayed lost for 17 spins before returning. We haven't seen a zero lately, so it might be worth the risk. So, what we do is make a one-unit line bet on each of the other 5 sections (i.e. 1,3,4,5,6). We do this for 3 spins and collect one-unit profit for each spin. After that, we stop betting that the 2 will stay lost and we make a note in the margin of our score card that we are now waiting and watching for the 2 to return. Because when it does, we are then going to bet it the other way. We are going to bet that it will hit (hopefully more than once) in order to make up for being lost. Because as you know in a section of 12 numbers the 2 should have hit twice. I put a notation of R2 in the margin of my score sheet to remind me to bet on the 2 when it returns.

4 3 6

5 3 4

1 4 5

4 5 6

R2 5 1 3

Also note that with each new spin, I strike through a number at the top so that I always have only 12 numbers showing. If I strike through a number that doesn't appear in the next 12 numbers, then I know I have a potentially lost number and I have to then decide upon what kind of play to make. And of course we make our decision based upon what has been happening on this wheel. Remember, if lost numbers are coming back within 15 spins or so, then it is too dangerous to make this play.

So what happens if you are playing a lost number not to return and you get hit by a zero? Well, continue to play the number until you have completed 3 spins in which you bet the number not to hit. So, if the zero hits on your 2nd spin, then make the bet 2 more times. Or, if it hits on the 1st spin bet it 3 more times.

We want to make a total of 3 plays against the lost number not counting the zeros. Another option if you get hit by a zero is to double your bets on the other 5 sections for the remainder of the 3 spins and try to break even or even still make a unit on this play instead of losing 4 or 5 units. But remember, this is a big risk and if you get hit, instead of losing 4 units, you now may lose as many as 14 on this play and that is very hard to dig out of. So I don't recommend this play unless you are way ahead and feel very confident that you won't get hit by another zero or the lost section returning. After you gain experience you will get a better feel for when you can get away with this, but for now, I feel it is best to stick with flat bets.

When I'm making this play and betting that the section will stay lost, I make a little N2 notation above every number recorded.

That is my way of tracking and saying "No 2".

4 3 6

5 3 4

1 4 5

4 5 6

R2 5 1 3

n2 n2 n2

6 1 4

5 2 3

2

Now, notice that in the above example, the 2 has now returned and hit twice. Before playing a returning number to hit, we usually want to wait until it hits a couple of times to make sure it is back. Sometimes it may be even safer to wait for 3 hits, it just depends upon what has been happening. I usually use previous occurrences to determine how I'm going to play this time. Also, usually I wait a spin before beginning to play the number but once again, if a previous returning number has hit back to back, then go ahead and start playing the returning number immediately.

So, since section 2 was lost and has now returned, we start betting on section 2, and section 2 alone. We bet one unit on section 2 for 6 spins or until it hits. Hopefully it will hit before 6 spins because if it doesn't, we will lose money on this play. But usually it will. If we should get hit by a zero along the way, then bet it for 7 spins.

When playing this method, you have to go with the flow of the table. Remember every table has its own characteristics but you will usually see a pattern. There is never any guarantee that the pattern will last, but this is all characteristics but you will usually see a pattern. There is never any guarantee that the pattern will last, but this is all we have to go on, so watch out for overall characteristics of the way sections are hitting, disappearing and reappearing.

Many times you will find it very difficult to bet against a section because it is returning too quickly and biting you in the butt. So, in these cases it is best to only play the sections as they return from being lost. Forget about betting against sections altogether on this type of table. But I have often seen tables where sections got lost and stayed lost for long periods but were erratic when I bet on them after they returned from being lost. I would then just concentrate on betting against sections and might even bet for more than 3 spins. But once again be very careful when extending this bet because it can hurt you badly very quickly. Just take whatever the table will give you.

If a table is being too erratic and unpredictable, don't try and force it. Just go to another table. You may find that plays are kind of scarce on one table, but if there are two tables fairly close together, you may be able to monitor both of them and just buy regular house chips just like the ones used on other gaming tables (sometimes called value chips) so you can jump in and play when you see a play develop.

When playing this method, I usually go for a win of 10 units per session on a table. If I lose 20, I stop or if I'm struggling and can't seem to get ahead, I stop and take a break and look for another table. It is often helpful to look at your score sheet and see what you might have done wrong or might have missed.

The Second Approach

For this approach, consider each section to have an opposite section. Section 1 would be the opposite of section 4. Section 2 would be the opposite of section 5 and section 3 is the opposite of section 6. Whenever a section lines up with its opposite, we consider that a hit and we will base our play upon how these hits are coming or not coming. Look at the example below.

3 5 6

4 2 4

6 1 1

In the above example we see that we have 2 hits. One is on the second line where the 2 lines up with its opposite the 5, and on the 3rd line where the 1 lines up with its opposite number the 4. These hits are underlined. Now, a strange thing about this is that these hits tend to group up. You often see groups of 3 or 4 hits like this or maybe even 5 or 6. All of them will be grouped together with each hit usually coming within 6 spins of the previous hit which is exactly what we are looking for. If a table has produced a group like this before, the next time it comes up, we can try to take advantage of it and get a hit or two. The indicator we will use is 2 hits within 6 spins of each other.

That usually introduces a group of 3 or more hits. When we see this, the safest play is to only go for one hit. But you might push it and go for two if there were 4 or more hits in the previous group. But whatever you do, don't make this play unless you have seen it work on paper previously at that table. Not only should there be 2 hits within 6 spins of each other, but there should also be at least 6 previous spins without a hit preceding the 2 hits within 6 spins. Here is an example of a play.

4 6 5

3 3 4

1 6 1

6 2 4

3 4 5

5 6 1

5 4 3

5 5 4

1 2 4

6 2 1

Notice that there is an interval of 12 misses between the time the 3 hit on line 5 (last hit in that group) and the 2 hit on line 9. At this point we would begin play. We would play the 3 section next because we hope it will line up beneath the 6. Then on the next play, we would play the 5 section because it would win if it comes up next under the 2 and finally we would play the 4 section hoping it would line up beneath the 1. We play this way for 6 spins. If we don't have a hit, we stop.

Also notice that in the middle we had a period of 12 spins without a hit. If you have seen the pattern previously (and only then) you might play for a no hit after 6 misses. You do this by playing every number except the opposite of the number above it.

You are betting that the opposite won't line up. Once again, you only make this play for 3 spins. Another characteristic of this match up type play is that sometimes you get long sections where the numbers just aren't matching up. If you recognize it, you can jump on it and bet against the opposite sections and just continue to aren't matching up. If you recognize it, you can jump on it and bet against the opposite sections and just continue to bet until you have your 10 units profit. Hopefully you won't get hit by zeros. But anytime you get hit by a returning section, stop. As I said and as you will see, these things tend to group together.

On the other hand, you may encounter a table that just continually hits. I once played a table for an hour and a half and only missed getting a hit within 6 spins twice. But if you decide to continue playing beyond one or at the most 2 hits, just understand that you are taking a big chance and you should only do that if you are well ahead and can afford to bust out. This will be a session when you are going for a big win. But remember, even though we do need the occasional big win, don't get too greedy and constantly go for them or you will wind up bankrupt.

But on the rare occasion if you find that table that seems to be giving you the opportunity, and you are sufficiently ahead so that you can afford to bust out, and if you feel good about it, then go for it.

Now look at the example again and we will see something else.

4 6 5

3 3 4

1 6 1

6 2 4

3 4 5

5 6 1

5 4 3

5 5 4

1 2 4

6 2 1

Notice how we have match ups in lines 7, 8, 9, and 10. In other words a 5 lines up beneath another 5 in line 7, then the 5's line up again in line 8, then the 4's line up in line 9 and the 2's in line 10. You can play these match ups exactly the same way you play the opposites. Everything I just told you applies to match ups. There is no difference. So if you don't have a play with the opposites, you may have one with the match ups. What I do is set my page up something like the one below.

Opposite Same

4 6 5 4 6 5

3 3 4 3 3 4

1 6 1 1 6 1

6 2 4 6 2 4

3 4 5 3 4 5

5 6 1 5 6 1

5 4 3 5 4 3

5 5 4 5 5 4

1 2 4 1 2 4

6 2 1 6 2 1

When doing it this way, I don't get confused. I have two completely different charts to look at and I can see how the hits are lining up on each one. By the way, when I chart, I circle the hits. It was just easier in developing this document to just underline them.

Another thing to watch for when playing this way is a stable pattern. Occasionally you see a pattern where the hits are coming at regular intervals just like clockwork. A few days ago I played a table where numbers were lining up every 8 to 10 spins every time. I made some easy money on this table by waiting 5 or 6 spins then playing the matches. They never hit further than 10 spins apart and never closer than 4 for the whole session.

When playing the Same/Opposite method, always use flat bets.

I don't advise you to play this method in conjunction with the first method described at least not at first. However, once you get very familiar with both approaches, you can make 3 charts and play both methods at the same time. You will just about always have some kind of play in the works. But it is tricky as you might guess and it is easy to miss something and just get messed up all the way around, so don't do it until you've had lots of experience.

Before I move on to the final method, let me add that you can bet against 2 sections at once. That is, bet that an opposite won't line up, and at the same time bet that a same won't line up. To execute this play you would be betting one unit on every section except the section that would line up as an opposite section from the section above it and you would of course not be the section that would line up as the same section. And of course, make sure both sections have the qualifying 6 misses before you make this play. If the play is there, this can even be more effective than betting against one section because if you get hit by a zero, you only lose 4 units instead of 5 and while you are winning you are winning 2 units instead of 1. This usually works best when playing the combined opposite or same approach. Rarely will you ever have two sections lost at the same time when playing the first approach described in this document. And if you did, there would be too much danger of one of them coming back on you. But just remember, and I can't reiterate enough, when playing for sections not to hit watch out for the zeros. Don't do it if a zero has hit within the last 7 spins or you have had two zeros within 12 to 15 spins. And don't get greedy. After 6 misses, only play for 3 more and then only if the table has shown prior evidence of long intervals between hits.

Final Approach

Now for the final approach that we will discuss. This is the one I hope you will adopt and work at and make your main method of play. I have consistently won 90% or better of the sessions I've played with this approach. And the wins aren't rink dink either. I'm talking about wins of 25, 30, and once even 64 units. I usually go for wins of 20 to 30 units however. If you lose 25 to 30 units, by all means stop. The table is out of sync or you are, one or the other. Never take more than 3 losses in a row at any time.

With this approach, we never bet that a section won't hit. We are always betting that a certain section will hit. We play one section at a time. We always mainly consider the last 12 spins.

Once again, it is best to group them in columns of 3 as we have done in all the previous methods. It seems to me that I can read them better that way.

When we are betting, we are going to use a small progression. We will bet 1 unit on the first 2 spins and 2 units on the next 2 spins and 3 units on the final 2 spins. We only play for 6 spins and only risk 12 units. So the progression goes like this: 1-1-2-2-3-3. I'm not a big fan of progressions, but in this case it is almost a necessity in order to make the most of your time and capital invested. You can win by flat betting and the risk will be slightly less, but the profits using a progression are much greater and well worth it. You should be OK, even playing the progression, with a 125-unit lifetime bankroll. Don't ever take more than 60 units to the LIVE Dealer casino with you. If you lose 2 sessions, you certainly have no business playing any more that day. Go home and practice until you regain your confidence. But if you put in the time to practice this before going to the casino, you won't have to worry too much about ever having a loss that big.

Now, as I said, in order to decide what section number to bet on, we consider the last group of 12 numbers. If you want you can cross out the top number as each new number spins up so you only have 12 numbers showing at any one time, just as in the first approach we discussed. By way of a side note here, if you are playing the opposite/same approach, obviously you shouldn't cross out numbers in that case because you need to see the whole gamut of what has transpired. You also need to refer back to previous spins from time to time with this method also, but you can still read the numbers if you only strike them out with one slash.

Let's look at a few spins from a table I played recently and I will attempt to illustrate how we select the section we want to bet on.

5 3 1

4 6 4

5 6 4

4 3 1

First we want to make a mental note for future reference that the 2 is missing but we won't worry about that right now. But notice that in this group of 12 numbers the 4 is hot. It has hit 4 times. And the hits are spaced out fairly well. This will be a good play most of the time. In fact, it is about as close to a perfect play as you can get. The only thing that would be better is if we knew the 4 was returning from being lost, which it very well may have been. But these were the last 12 numbers showing on a 16 number marquee so I jumped right in and played the 4. It hit on the 5th spin which was a perfect hit and netted me 9 units profit. Here were the next 6 spins.

5 3 1

4 6 4

5 6 4

4 3 1

(next 6 spins)

2 6 2

5 4 4

As you can see, we not only got a hit on the 5th spin, but the 4 hit again on the 6th spin but we stop playing when we get a hit and look for the next good play. For the most part when a number (or section) hits 4 times within 12 spins and the hits are spaced out slightly, this is a very strong play. However, when a section hits 5 times within a group of 12 spins, that is usually too much. That section is likely to take a vacation for the next 6 spins at least. Also, if you have 4 hits with 3 of them grouped together like on the 12th, 11th, 10th, and 8th spins back and no hits since then, that would not be a good play. Example:

5 5 5

1 5 4

6 3 2

4 3 6

I would not play the 5 in this case. In fact, I wouldn't play anything. There is no number except the 5 that is showing any signs of dominance or coming into dominance.

If a number is hitting at regular intervals continually, then that number might be a good play if it has hit at least 3 times in the last 12 spins. On a play like this, there should not be 2 occurrences of that number on the same line. Here is an example of what I'm talking about.

4 3 6

1 2 5

3 4 6

1 6 2

4 3 4

3 1 2

In this case, I like the 3. It should be a fairly sure hit even though there are only 3 hits within the last 12 spins. But take into account previous patterns on this table. Also, this would be a very good play if the 3 had been lost and was just returning up there in the first line with the 4,3,6.

As you watch the spins progress, you will see one number coming into prominence, then another. I try to catch each number at its peak. That is, it hasn't been hitting much, or it has been lost and now it is coming into prominence and has hit 3 or 4 times and the hits are spaced fairly well. Just watch for this shifting of dominance, and you will automatically know what to play.

Also pay attention to table patterns. If numbers are tending to hit back to back, then don't worry so much about spacing. Just make sure that this is a definite trend and not just a one-time occurrence.

As I've stated before, numbers (or sections) returning from being lost are usually a strong play. But our general approach is that we want to make sure they are back and are becoming dominant. But if you watch table patterns you might note that on some tables lost numbers (sections that haven't hit in the last 12 spins) may be coming back right on schedule. That is, they constantly reappear after being lost for 12 to 14 spins and are always back by the 18th spin. If you see that happening at least twice, then this might be a good play. I've seen this happen over and over again on some tables. But most tables are erratic concerning the return of lost numbers. They might come back between the 12th and 18th spins and they might not. So, once again, this is only a good play if the table has demonstrated a marked propensity to do this. But if you play it and lose, I wouldn't try it again on this table. Just be aware of this play and watch for it. It can be another weapon in your arsenal.

In all of these plays, take what the table is giving. Watch the patterns. NEVER FORCE A PLAY!! If you don't see a play that jumps out at you that you feel confident about after observing the table patterns, then don't play. And remember, on most tables your strongest play will be when a number that has either been lost or which hasn't been hitting much comes into dominance and hits 4 times within the last 12 spins and the hits are fairly well spaced out.

Now, let's go back to our table we played a few nights ago and just walk through it.

5 3 1

4 6 4

5 6 4

4 3 1

As I said before, I played the 4 here and hit it on the 5th spin.

2 6 2

5 4 4

Now, even though we have 4 hits on the 4 within the last 12 spins, it is risky to play it again. I hardly ever play the same number twice unless it is a lost number returning and it has hit 3 times previously and just hit again to give it 4 hits in the last 12 spins. Then if I played the lost number the first time after 3 hits, I might play it again if the 4th hit came on the first or 2nd spin. That would be OK under those circumstances.

Otherwise, I never play the same number twice. I just wait until I see the next number come into prominence. As it turns out here, the 4 actually hit again on the next spin, but didn't hit again until the 7th spin after that. So, we would have lucked out if we had played it, but you see that the space between them immediately grew to a point that we would have busted out had we played it again. And that's what I was afraid of after the first hit and is the reason I elected not to go for another hit on the 4. So, let's look at a few more spins.

4 2 5

2 5 5

At this point I noted that the 2 was returning from being lost and has hit 3 times so far since returning. Ordinarily this might be a play I would make, but I also noticed that the 6 hit 3 times well-spaced and then disappeared again. So, we will err on the side of caution and lay off the 2 for now.

4 1 1

1 2 1

All of a sudden the 1 has showed up virtually out of nowhere and has gotten red hot. Even though the spacing is not too good here, I look back and see how the 4 hit back to back 3 times and went on to hit again, so everything considered I feel good about this play. Let's see how we did.

1 4 6

Well, we hit it on the first spin for a 5-unit win. Let's continue. We've had 5 hits on the 1 within the last 12, so we will leave it alone. But as it turns out, it did hit again as did the 4 earlier. So this is a trend that we should note. Next time, if the same situation arises, we will probably play a hot number one more time. But we will also take into account how far we are ahead. If we are struggling, we still won't take the chance, but if we are doing well, it is worth a shot.

5 1 3

2 4 4

3 2 2

All right, at this point we see the 2 getting hot and remember that it was lost before and never really got hot upon its return. And based upon the way the 4 and the 1 hit when they got hot, I think it would be a good idea to play the 2 now. Guess what, it hit on the first spin for another 5 units profit.

At this point we've won 19 units without a bust out. Let's take a break and have some dinner.

Well, that is basically how it goes. As I've said repeatedly, you will just need to practice, practice, practice until you get used to seeing how these combinations come up. But this is by far the best and most lucrative way to play roulette that I've found so far. One other observation I would like to make. When playing the Final Approach, you often have to wait a few spins for a play to develop (remember, patience). If you want to sit down at a single table and play that table only, you may want to have something to do while waiting for a good play to develop. If the tables aren't crowded, you can probably sit and watch a few spins here and there and no one will say anything. But, if the tables are crowded, if you are going to warm a seat at the table you will be expected to bet. In this case you might want to play the "Same/Opposite" approach for a small denomination (preferably the table minimum bet) while playing the Final Approach for a higher chip value. To accomplish this, you should ask the dealer if you can play regular house chips in addition to the table chips you purchase. That way you can make your Final Approach bets with the house chips and then make your smaller bets for the Same/Opposite method with a lesser valued roulette chip. (Incidentally, the dealer will ask you what value you want assigned to your roulette table chips). If someone else is already playing regular house chips, then you will have to buy two colors of roulette chips and assign them a different value. Just don't get them mixed up! That's why I strongly recommend using house chips along with a lesser valued table chip. That way you can't get confused. The unit value you use to play the Final Approach should be at least 5 times higher than the unit value you use to play Same/Opposite. And an even greater differential would be even better. Remember, we are only using the Same/Opposite method as busy work while we are waiting for a Final Approach play. We might have to suspend a play with Same/Opposite if you are betting against a section. But if you are betting for a section hit with Same/Opposite, you can continue to play that along with the Final Approach play. Just make sure that playing the Same/Opposite doesn't hinder your concentration so that you miss a play with Final Approach. Also, you can record each spin in 3 different sections as illustrated earlier. Just use the 3rd section as the Final Approach section.

Opposite Same Final Approach

4 6 5 4 6 5 4 6 5

3 3 4 3 3 4 3 3 4

1 6 1 1 6 1 1 6 1

6 2 4 6 2 4 6 2 4

3 4 5 3 4 5 3 4 5

5 6 1 5 6 1 5 6 1

5 4 3 5 4 3 5 4 3

5 5 4 5 5 4 5 5 4

1 2 4 1 2 4 1 2 4

6 2 1 6 2 1 6 2 1

Personally, when I play Final Approach, I usually don't even bother to sit down at the table. I make sure I've got house chips then I just stand near the table and wait for a play to come up. Then I step up to the table and place my bets. Even if the table is full, the casino won't mind because they want all the action they can get. Also, I often track two tables at once. If there isn't a play on one table, there may be on the other. Two tables will usually keep you busy.

You can practice these methods by going to the casinos and writing down consecutive numbers off the tables then go home and play the sessions. Or, better yet, just stand or sit near a table where you can see a working marquee and write down the numbers and play live just as if you were actually playing at the table.

This is always a good thing to do before beginning live play for real money, just play on paper.

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