DICE

The nice thing about Dice is that there is no basic strategy to memorize, no cards to count, and no negative decks to try to last through. The outcome of every roll is the result of completely random chance. Random chance, and an approximate fifth fifty chance of winning, is exactly what the Star System is designed to beat.

Practically every book you read about casino games will tell you (except for the card counter in the game of blackjack), the Dice table offers you your best odds. This applies to only two type bets. It involves betting either the Pass Line or the Don't Pass Line. When betting these two options you can get the odds down to only 84% in favor of the house.

There are plenty of other bets available such as, hardway bets, big 6 and big 8 bets, field bets, any craps, horn bets, hop bets, Yo bets, and others. The best way to beat the dice table is not even know what they are or how to play them. The house advantage on some of these bets can get as high as 15%. If you are playing to make money, it is best to forget about them.

To get straight to the point, and keep it short and simple, the don't pass line is the only thing you will play. Make yourself well aware of the following facts.

  1. The odds of rolling a 1 are 6 times in 36 attempts.
  2. The odds of rolling a 6 or 8 are 5 times in 36 attempts.
  3. The odds of rolling a 5 or 9 are 4 times in 36 attempts.
  4. The odds of rolling a 4 or 10 are 3 times in 36 attempts.
  5. The odds of rolling a 3 or 11 are 2 times in 36 attempts.
  6. The odds of rolling a 1-1 or 6-6 are 1 time in 36 attempts.

Those statistics are mathematical facts and cannot be disputed.

They will hold true with insistent regularity. If you rolled the dice a thousand times, you would find the seven was rolled six times as often as the double one or double six. This is regardless of any hot and cold streaks which you may have experienced.

Remember, over the long run, the seven will be rolled more often than any other number. Therefore, the number seven must always be made to work for you and not against you. In essence, it's like always having a positive deck in the game of Blackjack.

There are three methods via which we can go about achieving this. The first method may occasionally cause a lost primary session, but with two recovery sessions left to play there should be no problem.

It is a very effective method. It is more simple and less expensive to play than the other two methods. Also, the action will be a little faster. If you are a tourist, or just the average bettor, method number one will be the one you should play.

There are card counters who wouldn't dream of playing blackjack without card counting. By the same token, I'm sure there are crap shooters who wouldn't dream of shooting craps without taking advantage of the free or true odds option. If you are the average bettor (dollar wise), and fall in that category, then method number two is for you.

Method number three offers minimal risk to the player. It is basically the same as method number two, but involves betting larger amounts of money. Those who like to make large bets (highrollers), will probably prefer method number three.

Method # 1

The facts that method # 1 take into account are as follows:

  1. A 7 or 11 on the comeout roll will cause you to lose.
  2. A 7 or 11 will comeout 22% of the time. A sure loss .
  3. A 2 or 3 on the comeout roll is an automatic winner.
  4. A 2 or 3 will comeout 8.25% of the time. A sure win.

Net results: You are going to average losing on the comeout roll about one time in seven. That's O.K. because there are nine steps in our progression ladder. The odds will he in your favor, the other eight comeout rolls.

The above percentages are valid whether it be a hundred consecutive rolls or a hundred comeout rolls. For the time being, we are only going to consider one hundred comeout rolls. According to the laws of probability, thirty comeout rolls per hundred are going to be automatically taken care of for us. There is nothing we can do about it, twenty-two will be lost, eight will be won.

Of these thirty rolls, none will result in a won or lost session. Because they are comeout rolls, each one will be the first bet (a minimum bet), of your pre-progression bets. Each one is absorbed into the progression set which it initiated. If thirty percent of comeout rolls fall in the above category, then obviously the remaining seventy percent 'will be point numbers. If a seven is rolled before the point number you win.

A double six on the comeout will appear 2.75 percent of the time and is a tie. As a player (not the shooter), you neither win nor lose if a double six is rolled on the comeout. You can forget about that 2.75 percent as it is not going to affect you one way or the other.

It therefore becomes apparent that for every 100 comeout rolls,  there will be 70 times when the shooter must roll their point number or you win. These 70 times will become 70 progression sets for you. Each set may contain from two to twenty rolls or more.

Laws of Probability about point numbers are as follows:

Point numbers are: 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10 (4 & 10) (5 & 9) (6 & 8) are known as mate numbers. The odds on mate numbers are the same.

A 4 or 10 will each appear 8.33% of the time. That means that out of 70 rolls, 5 . 8 of them should be a 4, and 5 . 8 should be a 10. The odds that a seven will be rolled first are 2 : 1 . In other words, you should roll two sevens for every 4 or 10 rolled.

A 5 or 9 will each appear 11% of the time. That means that out of those 70 rolls, 7 . 7 of them should be a 5, and 7 . 7 should be a 9. The odds that a seven will be rolled first are 3 : 2 . In other words you should roll three sevens for every two fives or nines rolled.

A 6 or 8 will each appear 14% of the time. That means that out of 70 rolls, 9 . 8 of them should be a 6, and 9 . 8 of them should be an 8. The odds that a seven will be rolled first are 6 : 5 . In other words you should roll six sevens for every five sixes or eights rolled.

As can be seen, the seven is working for you. As a result, the odds have now turned drastically in your favor. In fact, they have become so much in your favor let's forget about dry mathematical figures that deal in fractions of a percent. Instead, let's work with whole numbers and round them off to the LIVE casino's advantage.

This will result in the answers being somewhat on the low side, nevertheless they will still decidedly get the point across.

To rephrase and state it in a somewhat simpler form; the laws of probability concerning point numbers and casino odds are:

  • #s 6 & 8 should appear 28% of the time. Odds are 6 to 5.
  • #s 5 & 9 should appear 22% of the time. Odds are 3 to 2.
  • #S 4 & 10 should appear 17% of the time. Odds are 2 to 1.

The first pad we are going to put in our favor is to combine mate numbers 5 & 9, and 4 & 10 into one group, and give the group 3 to 2 odds. By doing so, we now have the following:

  • #s 6 & 8 appearing 28% of the time at odds of 6 to 5.
  • #s 4 , 5 , 9 & 10 appearing 39% of the time at odds of 3 to 2.

The next pad we are going to put in our favor is to take the 28% of the time Pt.#s 6 & 8 come in, and .the 39% of the time Pt. #s 4 , 5 , 9 & 10 come in, and say that both groups come in an equal amount of times. In other words, we are taking five of the 39% group and adding them to the 28% group. Also, we are going to lower their 3 to 2 odds down to 6 to 5. As a result we now have:

  • #s 6 & 8 appearing 1/2 of the time at odds of 6 to 5.
  • #s 4 , 5 , 9 & 10 appearing 1/2 of the time at odds of 3 to 2.

Notice that there are no more 2 to 1 odds and some of the 3 to 2 odds have been lowered to 6 to 5. Those figures are of course not correct, but it is easy to see the error is to the casinos advantage and not ours. When the two ratios ( 6 : 5 & 3 : 2 ) , are added together, the result is a ratio of 27 to 10. Divide by two to obtain the average, and you get a ratio of 13.5 to 10. Convert a ratio of 13.5 to 10 to a percentage figure, and the answer is a 26% advantage over the house. When you consider the padding, it is probably closer to 33%.

It becomes irrelevant at this point. Just having a 26% advantage is like playing blackjack with a continuously super rich deck. The Star System will normally make a profit down to an approximate 15% disadvantage. With a constant 26% advantage it will write them a new address. If in doubt, get your dice out and begin to practice. Use ten dollars as your primary base bet and 2-2-2-4 as your pre-progression bets.

When using method number one (in case you are familiar with them), there are several reasons why you will not concern yourself with true odds. First, when betting the don't pass line, it requires that odds be given instead of taken. That goes against the grain of the average bettor. Nobody likes to bet more than they can win. Second, it requires the memorization of some odds tables and quite a lot of mental calculating when playing.

It also makes the standard progression ladder invalid and unworkable. It is sort of like card counting; the fraction of a percent you gain by using it is more trouble than it's worth. In method number one if you want to win more money, then simply use a higher base bet. Method number one is designed for the average person off the street who knows nothing about true odds or how to figure them. It is a simple system that works. Let's keep it that way.

If you are a regular dice player and insist on using true odds, then method number two is the one you want to use. If that's the case, then it is not necessary for me to explain true odds or how to figure them.

Method # 2

Method # 2 is for those who prefer to use the true odds option. Using true odds is about like card counting when using the Star System; it will improve your results slightly. When playing method number two, your pre-progression numbers and progression ladder become invalid. It therefore becomes necessary to put your progression bets on a sliding scale. You play method number two the same way as method number one until a point number is established. When the point number is established, you then lay full odds against the point.

Naturally, this involves betting more money than you can expect to win. How much more will depend on what the point number is. You no longer have a cut and dried progression ladder to follow. It now becomes an absolute necessity that you keep track (a running total), of the amount of money you are investing in each set.

The major advantage and best part of method number 2 is that when you lay full odds you are, in affect, going down for doubles.

Let's compare it to blackjack. It would be like the dealer showing you his hole card before you make your decision to go down for doubles or not. If you win, you have a profit and the progression set is over. It no longer will take two consecutive winning rolls to end the set. One winning roll will give you a profit and end the set. It therefore becomes a reality that the only way you can lose your bankroll is to never have one single winning roll come your way.

The only difficulty you may have when playing method two is simply keeping track of how much money you are investing and computing your next bet. It's not as difficult as it first seems.

Here's a simple way to do it.

First, set a goal on how much money you want to win per set.

Let's say $10 per set is your goal. Forget about your preprogression numbers and progression ladder. None of that applies in method # 2.

Rule #1: Your fist bet will always be the same amount as that which you chose to be your winning goal per set. Obviously, $10 should be your fist bet. If you win you have a $10 profit and the set is over. Your sliding scale progression ladder will only begin with a loss.

Rule #2: After a loss, your next bet will be 1/2 of the money you have invested in the present set, plus 1/2 of the amount you chose to be your goal per set.

Example #1: Let's say the shooter rolled a seven on the comeout roll. You lost ten dollars. Your next bet should be 1/2 of the money invested to date (1/2 of $10 = $5) plus ½ of your goal (1/2 of $10 = $ 5 ) . Your next bet will be $10.

Example #2: Let's say the shooter rolled a seven on the comeout and you are $10 down. As explained in example # 1, your second bet of the set should also be $10. The shooter rolls another seven and you lose again. Now you are a total of $20 down. As per rule # 2, your next bet will be $15.

Example #3: Let's say the shooter rolled a 7 or 11 five times in a row. Your bets should be:

Roll # 1

Roll # 2

Roll # 3

Roll # 4

Roll # 5

Roll # 6

$10

$10

$15

$23

$34

$51

Initial bet.

1/2 of money down + 1/2 of goal,

1/2 of money down + 1/2 of goal,

1/2 of money down + 1/2 of goal,

1/2 of money down + 1/2 of goal,

1/2 of money down + 1/2 of goal,

It's O.K. to round the above off to 10, 10, 15, 25, 35, 50 if you want to. It all averages out in the long run.

In any game of chance it is inevitable. It may only happen once a month or once a year, but sooner or later, an unbelievable streak of bad luck is going to come your way. For that reason, you will have a stopping point, a recovery procedure, and a daily bankroll (just as always).

These will be the same as you normally use with the Star System. If you lose twenty times what your starting base bet is, it is time to call a halt (end of primary session). You will then start a recovery session. In the above example, that would be $200.

As always, you divide by ten to figure your recovery session base bet.

Your daily bankroll will be the same as always (200 times your starting base bet). The above example would have required a $2000 bankroll. The only real difference is that your progression ladder changes to a sliding scale type.

In summary: getting pass the comeout roll could be a problem when using this method. Once you get pass that point, you are in the drivers seat because the seven begins working for you. When the point number is established you lay odds equal to the amount you have on the don't pass line. That's the same as going down for doubles. If you shooter sevens out, you have made a profit and its time to start over. As long as the shooter keeps making his point, you keep repeating rule number two.

Method # 3

Method # 3 is for the highroller to whom money is no problem. We are going to skip the preliminaries and get right to the point number. It is hard to believe that anyone could ever lose when using this method, but when you are gambling anything is possible.

It is almost the same as method number two, except you are going to eliminate the problems associated with the comeout roll. When playing method # 3, you will place no bets until there is a point number. At that time, you lay odds (a don't place bet) that the point number will not be made. Now you have the seven working for you on every roll of the dice. When the shooter makes their point and you lose, here is how to figure your next bet.

Figure up what one half of the total amount you are down is. Wait until the next point number and then bet whatever is necessary in order to win that amount. Repeat that procedure until you achieve a win.

At that time, pull all your money off the board and wait for another point number. Then you bet what ever is necessary to win twice the amount your previous goal was. This amounts to the same thing as letting a bet ride, except you have to pull your winnings and wait until the next point number before playing the second half.

Example: You lay the correct odds to win fifty dollars and succeed. If you were playing blackjack you would simply let the hundred dollars ride, but you cannot do that here. You have to pull your money off the board and wait for a new point number. Then (depending on the point number) you bet the necessary amount needed to win a hundred dollars. That is twice what your originally goal was.

Winning should present no problem since the only time you have a bet going for you is when you have the seven working for you. According to the laws of probability, you will win more often than you lose. That being the case, then two consecutive wins is inevitable. When it happens you will have a good profit and can start over.

The only way you can lose is for the shooter to make their point time after time after time until you have finally lost your bankroll. It could happen, but the odds are very high that it won't. Still, If by some remote chance it does, you will still use a daily bankroll of 200 times your starting base bet.

If you lost that, quit for the day. With about a 33% advantage all the time, it is difficult to imagine you losing more often than you win. When using method number three note that you will not get to shoot the dice. You must have a bet on the pass or don't pass line in order to shoot the dice.

In methods 1 & 2 when it is your turn to roll the dice, bet whatever you are using for a base bet. If you win let it ride three times. If you're lucky enough to make three passes in a roll, pull your winnings and try to repeat the cycle. If you can make three passes in a row just once, out of eight attempts, you will make a profit. For example: You're using a $10 base bet and lose the first seven times you handle the dice (results = $70 down). The eighth time you handle the dice you succeed in making three passes in a row. This results in an eighty dollar win (10+10=20 20+20=40 40+40=80). If you fail to make three passes in eight attempts you could double your bet and try eight more times. If you succeed, you have still made a profit.

Method three has no sets or sessions. You play until you reach your win goal or lose your daily bankroll. There was about two years time and several hundred thousand hands of blackjack involved in obtaining the statistics applicable to blackjack. That is not the case concerning dice. Only about ten thousand rolls are involved when it comes to their statistics.

The chart on the next page shows the difference between the statistics on blackjack and dice. Because the betting procedures for method number one and Blackjack are identical, the comparison is between those two only. As can be seen, It appears that the absolute guarantee of random chance is truly a positive feature for the Star System.

Dice Gambling Strategy Chart

*** Out of pocket money. Monies removed from your stack of chips (winnings included), and used to wager with. A rider is not out of pocket money. It is winnings left on the board and is an extension of the previous hand or roll. In essence, it is like the Daily Double at a race track.

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